Wear a jacket that fits!

Blazers and Suit Jackets
When trying on suit jackets and blazers, be sure to wear a dress shirt or bring one with you shopping. This way you know exactly how the jacket will look and fit. The more fashion-forward designers are making jackets tighter and shorter nowadays. I don’t recommend them. Trends change every 12-18 months. Focus on getting timeless classic fitting jackets to get the most mileage out of your wardrobe.

Fashion-forward suits are shorter and tighter fitting. Great for a night out but not so appropriate for business.

How should your jacket fit? 
• Check your fit with the jacket buttoned. Convention is button the top button and leave the bottom unbuttoned. Don’t button all the buttons on your jacket!
• Shoulders should fit snug. And say no to shoulder pads!
• Length should be long enough to cover your butt but not any longer.
• The jacket cuffs should end a half-inch to three-quarter inch before reaching your hand. It should never rest against the back of your hand, and it should never touch the base of your palm.
• The shirt cuffs are meant to be seen just a little bit. The amount visible ranges from a quarter to half-inch of shirt cuff.
• The jacket and shirt collars should next to each other in the back. There shouldn’t get a gap.
• The jacket’s collar should leave about a half- inch of your dress shirt’s collar visible.
• Fit should be trim yet comfortable but not roomy. No areas of puckering or creasing of fabric. If you can fit a bulletproof vest inside your jacket, it’s too big. If you have trouble buttoning your jacket or raising your hand up to flag a taxi, it is too small.
• At the end of the day, chances are you will need to take it to a tailor to get it altered so it fits you like a glove.

How to find your size? Jackets sizes are based on your chest measurement and your height. For example, 36R (“thirty six regular”) means it is for a 36” chest and regular length. Regular length is for people 5’8” to 6’. If you are 5’7” or shorter, try a short, or S. If you are 6’ to 6’3”, you will need a long, or L. As always, try stuff on to make sure you have the right size.

Next up: Tip#2 – Use a tailor!

Author’s note: I would like to acknowledge Alejandro Morales Jr for his contributions to this series of articles. Thanks Alejandro!